Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist: Gems, Beads, Jewelry Making and more

Hidden Silver Clasp
by Linda Bernstein
Intermediate project.

This clasp is really a bead that unscrews at the middle. The hollow bead made of metal-based clay is filled with polymer clay and has a barrel clasp imbedded into it.

The creation of jewelry can be a highly personal process. I prefer to make all the components of my jewelry whenever possible. Designing and creating this clasp has allowed me to add another handmade, personal element to my work and the amazing qualities of Precious Metal Clay (PMC) or other metal-based clay make it all possible.

(Read more about PMC in Nina Cooper's "The Alchemy of Precious Metal Clay" online)

TOOLBOX
• 1/4 oz. metal-based clay (the author used PMC for this project)
• 1/4 oz. polymer clay (the author used Premo for this project)
• 10 playing cards
• Small PVC roller about 1/2" x 6"
• Plastic wrap
• Work surface (preferably glass, about 14" x 14")
• Small star-shaped Kemper cutter
• Water
• Metal-based slip (the author used PMC)
• Olive oil
• Small paint brush
• Salon nail board or 320 to 1000 grit sandpaper

 		• Small drill bit in a pin vice
• Small piece of acrylic for rolling ropes
• Embossing gun
• Soldering pad
• Barrel clasp
• 2 sterling silver head pins
• Round nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Tumbler
• Mixed stainless steel shot
• Polishing papers and cloths
• Toaster oven
• Oven thermometer
• Oxidizer (optional)
• Kiln

For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory.
Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy, which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data.

STEP 1
Draw the design of the finished bead. It should be round at the middle so it will remain aligned after it is screwed together.
The shape can be spherical, conical, or a tapered cylinder with a flat end.

STEP 2
Make an armature of polymer clay to shape the bead over.

STEP 3
Place a small amount of olive oil on your palms. Pinch off about 1/3 oz. of the metal clay. Roll it into a ball and place it on the work surface.
Place 5 cards on either side of the ball. (This will help ensure a consistent thickness.) Roll out a sheet of metal-clay under plastic wrap until it is even with the cards.

STEP 4
Cover the armature with the metal-clay sheet and allow it to dry.

STEP 5
Pop off the dried piece and repeat Steps 3 and 4, in pairs, for each bead clasp.

STEP 6
By hand, with a small drill bit, drill a hole in the small end of each half of the bead.

STEP 7
Roll out a sheet of metal-clay, 3 cards thick, and cut out 4 small stars with a Kemper cutter for each half bead.

STEP 8
Dampen the bead then place a star over the damp spot and push down gently. Do this for all the stars.

STEP 9
Make a rope of metal-clay in your hand; perfect the rope by using a small piece of acrylic. Press down and move the acrylic back and forth to make a very thin, evenly round rope.

STEP 10
Dampen the outer edge of the cone and place the rope around it.

STEP 11
Trim the rope to the correct size, dampen the ends of the rope, and join where ends meet.

 

 

STEP 12
Dry the rope and stars using an embossing gun and soldering pad.

STEP 13
Fill any spaces between the rope and the cone with slip.

STEP 14
Perfect the pieces by filing with a salon board or sandpaper.

STEP 15
Place the bead halves on the kiln shelf, open end down, and fire them at 1650°F for 2 hours or follow the manufacturer’s directions for the metal clay you are using.

STEP 16
Tumble with mixed stainless steel shot for 1 hour. Polish, oxidize (if desired), and polish again.

 

 

STEP 17
Remove the loops from the barrel clasp.
Insert head pins into barrel clasp holes.

STEP 18
Fill the inside of the bead with polymer clay.
Make a hole to receive half of the barrel clasp.


STEP 19
Force the barrel clasp into the polymer clay where you made the hole until it is flush with the open edge. Trim off the excess polymer clay

.

STEP 20
Wire-wrap the long ends of the head pins into loops. Bake the beads for half an hour at 275°F in a conventional oven. Use a thermometer.

After cooling, screw the two halves together. The bead clasp is finished and ready to be incorporated into your jewelry.

Linda Bernstein has worked with polymer clay for more than 10 years and has worked with Precious Metal Clay™ for 2 years. Her work has appeared in various industry publications, as well as in national juried shows. To see more of her work, check out www.Artique.org.

We at Lapidary Journal love feedback! Write to us in care of Mail Bag, or post your comments to our online discussion forums. E-mail Jewelry Journal Editor Tamara Honaman.



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